Costa Rica - the Pacific Coast

Costa Rica has been high on my bucket list for many years, due to its numerous parks and the abundance of wildlife. As David had been there a few times before, we swapped roles for a change. He had to do the most of the planning and reservations, while I took over the role of cheerleader and map reader. I wanted turtles and parrots; everything else was a bonus! Secretly I was also crossing fingers and toes for tapirs and quetzals, but didn't want to seem greedy...

We were in total agreement about focusing on wildlife and started out towards the Pacific coast as soon as we'd swallowed the shock of the car rental prices. Our first stop on the way was the obligatory crocodile bridge in Tarcoles, on the coast. Enormous beasts eagerly eyeing the pale monkeys 10 metres above them are an incredible sight. Some still feed these giants... and maybe all the chicken have something to do with these guys looking pretty well fed.

We stayed right between Quepos and Manuel Antonio for the first few nights, checking out the surrounding parks and reserves. Manuel Antonio was obviously highest on our list, but the smaller places, with their quiet hiking trails and little waterfalls were really great visits as well.

We'd be all alone in these jungle trails, marvelling at the birds and other little critters. Nature here is all emerald green with brightly coloured beings, like random gemstones scattered in all the greenery... just mind blowing.

A visit to Manuel Antonio is a must, even though many claim it is too crowded and that you don't see much, unless you hire a guide. We weren't deterred by this, but decided to go in the early morning to experience the jungle waking up... just like most other tourists, unfortunately. However, most of them just rush along on the main trail, leaving us able to explore the lesser travelled side tracks on our own. We especially enjoyed the fact that few people we did see were walking fast and talking... and then complained about not seeing a lot!?

The two of us and another, European, couple were the only ones to see the squirrel monkeys. When we spotted a deer, its only other spectator was a little girl who was trying to get her mother to look as well. Unfortunately, the adults were to busy talking to notice the wildlife, their kid or anything else... We were lucky enough to see three of the four monkey species, sloths and countless lizards, birds and butterflies, so I really can not believe anyone saying this place isn't worth visiting!

The sloths were a real treat, I'd never imagined that you'd see them so easily and that they don't care about your presence at all, even though you're on foot! Best bet is to look where a small group of people, led by a guide, are craning their necks... it is usually a sloth. Spotting them by your self is also very possible, though they won't normally be giving themselves away through noise or movement. One mother and baby had decided to take a mid-day nap right outside the ladies' room. However, the little one was safely hidden away from eager photographers like me, in its mother's embrace.

The beaches in the park are like something out of a movie, with turquoise water, palm fringed golden beaches and wildlife scurrying amongst the beach goers. Apart from the cheeky capuchin monkeys hoping for leftovers, there was an abundance of iguanas competing with us for the best spots in the shade.

I also had my first encounter with a couple of raccoons, a mother and a young one, trying their luck as people left their belongings on the beach for a dip in the ocean. Being an American, David was slightly amused by my first-time enthusiasm for these animals, whom I followed around for a good forty minutes, before they were chased away by one of the park guides. 

However, the greatest sighting for me this day was the scarlet macaw that showed up as we came back to town. I jumped out of the car, camera in hand, slaloming through traffic, as the parrot landed in a nearby tree. I was speechless at the fact that my wish for a macaw had come true so early on and with virtually no effort... not yet realizing I'd catch quite a few more, before the end of my Costa Rican visit.

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Manatee Magic

I've never really had any great urge to visit the US, apart from maybe Alaska and the desert parks of the south west. Florida was never even on the map! However, as David came across an article about manatees, this would all quickly change...

In winter, the West Indian manatees gather in great numbers at the hot springs of Florida, to avoid the cold temperatures in the Mexican Gulf. They cannot survive if it's colder than 15 degrees Celsius and even a prolonged stay in waters below 20 causes cold stress syndrome and is sometimes fatal. Hence Citrus county on the western coast of Florida sees an influx of manatees between November and March each year.

At the end of January, we made our way from Tampa northward, to try our luck. The days were beautifully sunny and dry, with temperatures ranging from 8 to 17 most of the time. Arriving at our manatee themed Airbnb in Homosassa, we were greeted by our super enthusiastic, talkative and knowledgeable hosts, who also rent out kayaks and snorkelling equipment. We quickly made a plan for our five nights in this small town and decided to head out early next morning, to the famously clear waters of Crystal Springs. 

Excited, but also a bit sceptical, we were dropped off the next morning, after having rented some gear. The water might be pleasant at the springs, but the air temperature calls for wet suits this time of the year. Kayaking the few kilometres towards the spring was a great experience in itself, with lots of birds making their presence known. 

Seeing the first pair of nostrils from the first individual was pure joy! There was a group of manatees feeding a bit away from the spring and really got my heart pumping.

As we closed in on the spring, I expected a crowd, but was happily surprised to see only a couple of kayaks and one park ranger out on the water. The area closest to the spring is fenced off to humans, so that the animals can choose to be left alone in the relative warmth and swim in and out as they please. On land, the area is a State park, where you pay an entrance fee to see the animals from land. Getting wet when it's only 9 degrees may not be tempting to normal people... 

But, who said we're normal!? We secured our kayaks and under we went... I had not known what to expect and probably hadn't really given it much thought. I've seen pictures, but we all know it is never as good as that in real life. But... not only are manatees huge, they're also extremely curious and gentle! They come right up to you to check you out and will even let the young ones close in on you. No words can describe these encounters... Not even the pictures do it justice...

After an hour and a half, even 22 degree water feels chilly and we had to return to town. Happy to be wearing wet suits we had a bit of a rough paddle back, against the current. We returned our rental gear just before closing and made arrangements to pick it up again the next morning, to go to a different spot. Back at our accommodation, we were grateful to jump into the hot tub in the garden, watching woodpeckers and sipping coffee until it got dark.

Next morning we headed to a lesser known spot, recommended by our hosts; a camping area right on the river. The boat launch site is actually the best for manatees, but we started out by going down river, just to have a look around. We weren't disappointed. Being all alone on the river, with birds everywhere and a couple of manatees coming up for air here and there was pure magic! The water was pretty murky on the river however and we turned back after a couple of hours, after having had lunch in the kayaks on a sunny little creek.

Even though the water wasn't as clear as the previous day, it was much better than down stream and all in all, pretty good. This place felt much more wild and we could see why it had been recommended. The manatees here were even friendlier than at the more popular spot and frequently came up to the very few snorkelers for a good scratch. 

In general, the rule is no touching of any wildlife... But, in Citrus county, there is an exception. If the manatee touches you first, you are allowed to scratch them with one hand... and one hand only! Of course you can not chase them or hold on to them. However, there's no rule saying they can't hold on to you... or even nibble you!

On our way to the east coast, we made sure to pass the Blue Springs. This is the spot that sees the highest density of manatees, with congregations of several hundred in the winter months, though manatees actually are solitary creatures. You aren't allowed in the water in any way in this State park, which is very understandable, as there are thousands of people visiting here every day. It is however really pretty and photogenic with it's turquoise crystal clear waters. We spent a few hours in the afternoon, marvelling at the sight.

As the sun was getting low, the light was amazing and it was quite fun to watch the manatees and cormorants checking each other out... Though at one point. I guess the nibbling got to be too much.

After a few days of birding on the east coast, we planned on heading south, towards the Everglades. We were talking about how we both found it incredibly sad that we'd never see manatees again and didn't know how to deal with life if didn't... so, on a whim we decided to go all the way back to Homosassa! We called up our hosts from the previous week and made sure to stop for a land based view of our beloved manatees, before reaching our accommodations, hot tub and a cheap little Mexican restaurant once more. 

Next day we had to rent a canoe from the campsite office, as our hosts had made previous arrangements for their kayaks with the other couple staying over. We didn't really mind, as we weren't going very far... only about 100 m out from the office and launch site, to yet again being embraced by the gentle giants. Just as last time, there weren't many other people here and one manatee calf just loved seeking attention from each one of the visitors. I would have thought the mother might object, but she happily swam around getting belly rubs here and there, enjoying life.

As it was a relatively warm day, we didn't rent wet suits, but got out of the water every now and then to warm up on our shared canoe... Oh how the tiny little flying blood suckers loved that decision! I was covered in some sort of local remedy, but it only sort of half worked. A hot tub soak and a scorching hot shower later on took care of most of the itchiness though. 

Early next morning, we left this area once more, after a last goodbye from the jetty. However the year turned out after this, at least the manatees of Citrus county gave us a great start to 2020.

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India, a shocking experience?

India has always intrigued, as well as frightened me a bit. So when we decided to give it a try, we did listen to our instincts, as well as some good advice from good friends. Planning and booking a trip to the chaos that is India is not something I’d want to tackle on the ground, standing in line, figuring out where to go and when.. No way! Instead of just showing up to figure it out as we go, or join a group tour, we chose the middle ground. We listed what we really wanted to see and do, contacted a local tour company with our wishes and they booked all the accommodation and tours accordingly. Hence, we were off to Rajasthan and Gujarat, for cool experiences of culture and nature. 

Food

Arriving in New Delhi early morning, we had played with the thought of getting out of there as soon as possible, as neither of us are really keen on big cities. However, it seemed to also be wise to get a bit of rest before heading off, to be able to appreciate the trip. But, we started out with a total shock to both sense and your senses… breakfast! We managed to check in at the hotel early and get some early morning spicy noodles at the breakfast buffet, which otherwise comprised mainly of toast and jam. Not the last time on this trip breakfast seemed like a fire hazard on our pallets… We did have to get used to this type of breakfast and also learnt from the start to order tea, never coffee: it is always bad! …unless you’re in a South Indian restaurant. 

One of my initial worries about India was getting the infamous Delhi-belly, as my stomach usually gets upset just drinking the calcium rich tap water in Denmark! But, we went with the notion that if there’s plenty of locals, the food is probably cheap, tasty and fresh. Most often we were the only tourists at the local places, but always ended up having great meals, which we downed with a couple of lassis or cups of masala chai. 

Since we were going to Gujarat, I also had to overcome my fear of cooked vegetables. Being a predominately vegetarian state, I quickly learnt to order dishes containing chickpeas, or similar, to break up the mushy texture. At one point we were actually offered chicken with our curry in Gujarat. It was almost like in the movies, when someone is offering the big gangster boss a briefcase full of cocaine, for a reasonable price!? All in all, the food impressed me.

After breakfast on our first day, we were off for a walk in the park, getting a first glimpse of the temples and monuments India is famous for, as well as the bird life. This was very peaceful and well needed after a night on a plane… and also a good warm-up for our next activity.

When you say India, many people probably think of tigers, temples and... Bollywood! So, to my travel partner’s great amusement, I’d booked us in for a few hours of private dancing lessons, Bollywood style, all with the proper attire of course! Three different styles were practised and then filmed… never has looking like idiots been more fun! 

Attention

And speaking of looks… Me dying my hair red just before the trip may not have been my brightest idea. If you think blond hair gets attention, try red! I was constantly stopped by everyone, wanting family pictures, one on one pictures and everything in between. As passers-by saw the commotion, they also wanted in on the deal. Grandmothers, babies, dogs… everyone! I had no clue what was going on, as there were plenty of other tourists around in both Agra and Jaipur. However, I do believe I solved the mystery as I was flicking through the flight magazine on our way out of India. In a section about new Bollywood movies, there was a photo of a redheaded, blue-eyed Bollywood-superstar (whom I have never heard of and look nothing like)… But it is the only explanation. I can only imagine their disappointment when they realise! 

After the dancing event on arrival day, moving on to a more dignified affair seemed to be in order. Finally celebrating David's birthday in style, we had high tea in the winter garden at one of the fancier colonial-style hotels in town. Cucumber sandwiches, cheesecake and all sorts of little goodies were easily devoured after having spent a lot of energy earlier on.

Traffic

Getting around in the city of Delhi was made easy by the fact that we had a car with a driver for the whole three weeks, so we never had to worry about transport or the absence of traffic rules. I’ve driven in some pretty crazy places, but India would have done my head in. I guess what I call rules, they see as gentle suggestions. Two lane roads are easily navigated as five lanes, hooting is mandatory every five seconds and negates the need for mirrors, indicators and common sense. On the freeway you shouldn’t be too surprised about having oncoming traffic on your side of the road, someone obviously just changed their mind as to what direction they wanted to go.

Also, donkeys, tuk-tuks, goats, packs of dogs and toddlers can show up anywhere at any time… no worries! Just zoom past them at the speed of light, wearing your hooter out, and if they didn’t already know, they will learn to watch out… Even camels are giving you the evil eye if you don't heed the more informal rules of the road!

So, we were grateful to have a driver that was used to this insanity and didn’t flinch if the highway all of a sudden turned into a sand quarry for a few km. On the other hand, we did get a bit tired of his unwillingness to follow the program and his begging for money after a while... Note to self: break the trip up in a couple of shorter bits, as to not get stuck with an annoying travel companion you didn't choose.

Needless to say, the shock of meeting India full on, at full speed, with spicy breakfast, funny dancing, chaotic traffic, mysterious smells, constant hooting, colourful women really tires your senses and we made it an early night... this was only day one!!?

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Photographic drives, at Jaci's lodges

I’ve worked as the photographic guide at Jaci's lodges in Madikwe since the beginning of the year and just like with any type of guiding, there are plenty of opportunities to learn something new every day. That’s an aspect that keeps me hooked to the guiding profession; you can challenge yourself on a daily basis, with every new guest. The interaction can be a great learning experience for both yourself and the guests.
 

A photographic drive is an opportunity for guests to learn more about photography in general and specifically wildlife photography. Every morning and afternoon there’s a possibility for a maximum of four guests to go on a photographic drive, on a first come first served basis. The maximum of number of four guests is to make sure that the learning experience is optimal. They can borrow cameras with 100-400 mm lenses, equipped with a memory card, as well as a vehicle mount for the camera, if they so wish.

Before heading out, the guests are given a few minutes of easy-to-follow instructions about the equipment, with the cameras set to aperture priority. To not overwhelm beginners, starting to take photos and learning as you go has proven to be the most inspiring method. I keep my camera at the same settings that I advise my guests to use, as to easily be able to show them what we’re aiming for, as well as being able to advise on how to adjust their settings to achieve the desired results.

We normally start out taking it slow, in hope of finding anything worth capturing on camera, be it a beautiful tree, a leopard or anything in between. As the different opportunities present themselves, we begin with basic composition and trying to get the animal in focus. Depending on the guests experience and knowledge, we then progress via playing around with different apertures, iso settings and exposure compensation to dealing with animals in motion, low light and other specific situations that may arise. Some guests want to learn more about certain aspects of photography, like macro or panning, which we then also will be giving a go. Important to keep in mind is of course the anticipation of animal behaviour, and this is where you as a field guide may have a lot to offer even the more experienced photographers.

On this type of drive and with the lenses we supply, it’s important to remember to not stop too close to the animals to begin with. A slow approach is preferable so as to get the whole animal in the frame, before advancing closer, if the animals allow for it. Sometimes dense bush and other aspects make this difficult, but then it is important to remember that close -ups and details can be interesting subjects as well. 

A close-up of the pattern of a giraffe, or a lion glaring at you can make for a great shot, even if most of the animal is obscured, as long as the eye is in focus. Here it’s important to use only one focal point, if you’re still on automatic focus.



The Facebook updates and safari slide shows normally become less of an ordeal for your loved ones, if there’s some variance in the type of photos you take. The variety of photos you can achieve in just one sighting often amazes the guests, as there’s a common notion that you can’t take pictures from certain angles or in certain light. A simple thing like zooming in and out, changing your position or angle, or waiting for the animal to do so can be very rewarding. If you’re patient and happy to experiment you’ll see that one animal in one location can be an absolute treasure.

Some guests want to photograph specific animals, like wild dogs or lions. Having only a few guests on the vehicle makes it easier to try to accommodate these requests. But, the photo drives are normally not about having the largest animals to photograph or a thrilling hunt to capture… though that’s obviously something you hope for on every drive! Nature of course doesn’t play on cue, regardless of what sort of drive you’re doing. I always find it more satisfying to accomplish an unusual or interesting picture of an ordinary animal, than an ordinary picture of an unusual species. However, that doesn’t mean I don’t get super excited when coming across an aardvark, wild cat or leopard, regardless of light, angle and obstructions. There will be lots of photos taken anyway; trust me. Results may vary and some photos probably satisfy the field guide in me, rather than the photographic guide.

Many guests have never had the opportunity to properly take pictures of birds, as it requires a rather big lens, or for the birds to be really close… preferably both. Most think they aren’t even interested in the avian species, but can then get very focused and competitive once they get on to it. Not long ago I spent about forty minutes photographing grey hornbills in flight, with a family of four who claimed to have no interest in birds. They didn’t want to leave the sighting, until we heard lions roaring close by and we went to investigate. Over dinner that evening, the youngest member of the family proudly showed off her mother’s work to everyone… not of the lion, but the birds!

Sometimes you get photos that at first glance look like a mistake, but deleting photos from the camera in the field can many times prove to be a mistake. I have myself had animals all of a sudden walking or flying straight in front of my subject, had my settings all wrong or moved the camera because of a bug hitting your forehead. Some of these shots can actually look intentionally arty or comical. So, if you are happy to get some fun and funky images, as well as your more normal shots, there are many awesome opportunities to be explored.
For me, different behavior and interactions is usually what I look for, as it’s what interests me. But to get a really nice result, light is usually the key. If the light is perfect, anything will look beautiful or interesting. The golden hour in the morning and afternoon are the times when you want to be having the greatest sightings, for your guests to get some really good shots to take home as their trophy from the event. Seeing the beautiful results of your own work is usually the best way of inspiring your guests to keep the photography up, even after their stay at the lodge.

Something I have in common with most of my guests is that I never get tired of sunrises and sunsets, which are difficult to get right, if you aren’t used to your camera. Often the request from photo interested guests is for nice sunrise or sunset spots, with or without animal silhouettes. This is quite easily accommodated, as long as the weather is on your side.  We’ve all seen the amazing postcard versions and trying to replicate them for yourself is a challenge, but also very satisfying when it all works out. However, it may also entail everyone getting up at silly hours in the morning!

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