Sunday 25 October 2009

Kruger, Part II

The more you get into wildlife, the more you get interested in birds. South Africa is home to some 951 different species of birds and some of them are really interesting. Before I came here I didn’t really care much about birds but now I find them fascinating. Without being too much of a bird-nerd I thought that I should show you a few of the cooler birds we saw in Kruger – most of them are raptors, so in other words, the more macho kind of birds…

First up is a Bateleur eagle. This is an adult, as you can see from the black and white plumage. They are brown as juveniles and don’t get their adult plumage until they are about six or seven years old. This one was kind enough to sit still in a tree not more than five meters away from our car. They do look pretty mean, don’t you think?
The Yellow billed kite is a common summer visitor and you see them a lot throughout South Africa. This is the only raptor here that has an all-yellow bill. This guy landed on the guardrail of a bridge, right next to our car.
This is a Tawny eagle, a rather common "true eagle". A true eagle has feathers on its legs, all the way down to its feet. Snake eagles for example don’t have feathers on their legs but have scales instead, to protect them from snakebites.
So, here’s the Brown snake eagle, notice the bare legs and the big orange/yellow eye.
This is a Gabar goshawk. It’s one of the smaller raptors but still, a beautiful bird.
The Southern ground hornbill is not a raptor but still, a formidable animal. They are ground birds (as implied by their name) and stand almost a meter high. This is a grown female (you can tell by the black patch on the throat) and she had company with her male partner one of her grown up offspring and their latest chick. Ground hornbills usually lay two eggs, the chick that hatch first will kill its younger sibling by stealing its food and trample it. This is known as siblicide (or Cainism) – otherwise mostly practiced by birds of prey. It may sound hard but it is just nature’s way of making sure that only the strong survive.
Finally, another ground bird. This is a Helmeted guinea fowl and my personal all-time favorite bird (even though they have a face only a mother can love). They are slanderously labeled as the most stupid bird in Africa. They quite commonly run in front of your car, trying to outrun you, not thinking about the option to turn off the road and head into the bush or to fly away. Granted, they may not be the smartest birds around (that would probably be the Fork-tailed drongo) but they are way more interesting and advance than people give them credit for. An interesting fact is that whenever we encounter a group of guinea fowl in the beginning of a game drive, we will have a really good drive with lots of nice sightings. Doesn’t sound very scientific, I know, but let me tell you, the guinea fowl magic hasn’t even failed once!

/ J

Tuesday 6 October 2009

Kruger I

It has been a while since we updated this blog so here’s a big one! We thought that we would share our Kruger experience because that is where we went on our second week off together with Helen, one of our course mates. Since someone forgot an important detail when you are camping, the tent (!), back at camp we ended up sleeping directly on the ground for a week. For a while there was a bit irritation about this, but in the end this resulted in less work and a closer-to-nature-experience… trying to see the positive here.

Before you ask - yes, we saw the ‘Big 5’. We even have the pictures to prove it. Elephants and buffalo can be seen almost everywhere in the park and you are pretty much guaranteed to see them up close and personal.This elephant calf seemed a bit curious and playful, approaching our car with no fear at all. Since the mother was feeding only a couple of meters away this caused the adrenaline to start pumping, but she really couldn’t care less.Rhino is a bit trickier to find and you are far from guaranteed to see one. In our case, however, we saw nine white rhino during our one week in Kruger; a couple of them were even kind enough to casually stroll along the main road, seemingly posing for the camera.Lions are also tricky to spot since they are more active after the sun sets. During the day you are unlikely to see lions doing anything more than relaxing (a lion will happily spend 20 hours a day sleeping). Spotting a lion sleeping in the high, dry grass is very difficult since they blend in perfectly with their fur having pretty much the same colour as the grass (or maybe it is the grass that is lion-coloured).Leopards - now, there’s the real challenge. There’s only about a thousand of them left in Kruger National Park (and the park is the size of Israel) and they are extremely shy animals. You should really consider yourself lucky if you see one because out of the Big 5 leopards are, by far, the rarest to see. We consider ourselves very lucky because we had an excellent sighting of a female leopard in a tree right next to the road and for quite a while we were the only ones at this sighting! A couple of old people came by after a while, praising our spotting abilities since they couldn’t see the leopard ten meters away until we pointed at it.The best sightings we had this week might have been the hyenas. On three separate occasions we saw hyena cubs, running around chasing each other or just investigating our vehicle. Sometimes we couldn’t even focus the cameras on them since they were too close! We mostly came across them early in the mornings and when we did our day was off to a good start. At one of the camps there are hyenas patrolling the camp fence in hope of finding leftovers from someone’s campfire dinner. This definitely added to the atmosphere as we saw it passing by as a dark shadow many times at night and could hear the calls of other hyenas all through the night. You never sleep as well as when there is wildlife calling… unless the wildlife happens to be francolins of course, annoying and loud birds!Mammals are what people in general find the most interesting so we thought that we should post pictures of a few of the less common or for that matter, less known mammals we came across during our week in KNP.

We saw many waterbuck, mainly close to the rivers and drainage lines. Because they produce a secretion from special glands in their skin that impregnate their fur so they have a bit of an odour to them. It is said that you can smell them some 500 meters away.Bushbuck - nice looking animals - they have something of a Bambi touch don’t you think? We took a lot of photos of this specimen since we are used to them being very shy and running away if you even think about a camera.Since reedbucks don’t occur in Makalali, we were a bit confused when seeing them from a distance and couldn’t decide what they were… They are similar to bushbuck (colouration, horns and habitat differs though) but less common. These relaxed Reedbucks were feeding down in a drainage line, preferring habitats close to water sources.Kudu - this is the second largest antelope (after Eland) and Anja´s favourite antelope and quite a photogenic species. This is a small female, males are very large (250 kg) with huge, spiralled horns. They taste very good too and we had an excellent kudu steak for dinner at one of the camps!Female Chackma baboon, and her little baby. They really are freakishly similar to humans when they are small. This is an animal that many people just drive past although they actually are among the most interesting to watch.
/A & J