Sunday 6 June 2010

Jaws

It has for a while been a dream of mine to see sharks up close, in their natural habitat. One way of doing so is shark cage diving, which you can do in Gansbaai, three hours east of Cape Town. Since this activity starts early in the morning we decided to stay in Gansbaai over night, to avoid having to get up at four in the morning.

Heading out the waves were pretty high and the boat was bouncing around and slamming down hard after each wave... but we were told that it actually was quite a calm day!When we reached Seal Island (yes, Walker Bay also has a Seal Island) the crew started to pour a scent trail of “fish soup” into the water and it only took about one minute before the first Great White showed up.Important to point out is that the encounter doesn't make the sharks associate people with food because the bits and pieces in the soup are too small for them to actually get anything to eat; only the gulls get to feast. The group consisted of six Americans and four Swedes and was divided into three smaller groups , since a maximum of four people can go into the cage at the same time. Jonny and I were in the first group jumping into the cage, wearing wet suites and goggles. The water was quite cold and in a wet suite two sizes too big, I wasn't very happy. From deck the crew shouted “Down down!” as another shark approached the boat. A deep gulp of air and we stared into the blue-green depths for a glimpse of the most feared predator in the oceans. The cold water was totally forgotten when the Great white propelled itself from below us toward the bait. For a second it was close enough to touch... if we had been stupid enough to try something like that. At first the fascination made me forget that I had my camera with me, but as the four sharks kept swimming by us, I remembered... You might think an experience like this is frightening but we were actually too excited to be afraid. Since quite a few of the others this day were suffering from sea sickness, there was enough space for me to jump into the cage with the other groups as well, which entailed that I was in the water the whole time! After an hour in the huge wet suite, in 14 degree water, I was blue and shaking... but happy.

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The Mountain

Table Mountain really dominates Cape Town and encountering a view of a mountain at every turn, it's impossible not to get the urge to climb it. Norman, however, fought the urge bravely and we therefore took on the mountain without him. Luckily the weather gods were on our side and we woke up to a lovely winter's day. Since it is 1086 metres high, it's enough for the seasons to "change" while ascending. You start out in 20 degrees, wearing shorts and end up wearing a thick sweater and a jacket , regretting not bringing gloves, since the temperature at the summit this day was only about 10 degrees.Every 20-30 metres or so, we had to stop and admire the view (and to catch your breaths). The vegetation on the mountain side is mainly fynbos, which is unique to this region and the endemic Proteas are probably the most well known of this biome's plants. Taking it slowly, the climb from the lower cable car station at, 300 metres, to the top takes approximately two hours. For a while it looked like we were going to be wrapped in the famous "table cloth", but as we reached our goal the clouds started to scatter again. Satisfied with our achievement we celebrated by eating an expensive lunch at the Table Mountain café before taking the four minutes (!) long cable car ride down.
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CT city

We had been told that no visit to South Africa is complete without a visit to Cape Town, so we decided to crash in Norman's bachelor apartment in Sea Point for a week. Sea Point is startegically located very close to both the city centre and Table Mountain and a good place to stay when exploring the town. Luckily this former class mate of mine, that I hadn't seen in twelve years (!), didn't mind too much. His great grandfather was Swedish and maybe that's why he gladly let us stay with him..? CT is a beautiful city and everywhere you go there is a stunning view of the mountain and the sea, so on the first day we were guided around town by our host to make heads and tails of it. One unexpected sight was this late 17th century castle!We wandered around on our own for a while before joining a guided tour, together with a flock of American tourists. In the torture chamber where we were all locked in for a while, to experience the darkness, they were wondering if there ever had been any innocent prisoners locked up in the Castle of Good Hope!? Amazing! Believe me, it was a kind of torture.

Of course we also had to explore the surroundings away from the city itself and therefore the three of us made a day trip to Cape Point. On our way we made a few obligatory stops and the first of these were in Hout Bay. This small town is very busy with tourists in summer but this time of the year, it mostly resembles a quiet fishing village. We strolled around in the harbour for a while, looking at the boats and a couple of seals swimming in between them, in search of fish. The gulls were delighted and noisily followed them around in hope of getting some scraps.

In almost every bay here on the south coast there is a Seal Island and since it was a calm day we went on a boat trip to the island, where the seals were dashing around in the breaking waves. In Simon's Town the traffic signs warned us about penguins and down on the beach hundreds of them welcomed us with their donkey like call, which is why they were once known as Jackass penguins. They do at times cross the roads and the signs are most likely necessary. This is just one of the beaches around the southern coast where you can get really close to these funny little guys and a few days later we encountered them again further away from Cape Town. Many of them had young that were hidden in the bushes on the beach and it was great seeing the parents coming back from the sea to feed them, only a few metres away! After a late lunch just outside Simon's Town, we reached Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope, located in Table Mountain National Park. At one of the view points I got a bit of a shock, since I had rushed there only to realize that the drop on the other side of the very low protective wall is about 175 metres! If you don't feel dizzy looking down, there is most likely something wrong!The dramatic landscape is truly breathtaking and should probably be explored during a full day and not only in late afternoon...

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