Thursday 7 April 2011

Running with the dogs

The African wilddog is not an every day occurance (not even an every month one) and I encountered them only about five times, in six months of guiding in Kruger last year. They are a definite favorite with many people and usually stir up quite a commotion when spotted, as they commonly run along the main roads. Their restlessness and stamina makes them hard to keep up with and almost impossible to go in search of.

Heading towards camp one evening, six dark shapes came running towards me and I saw cars turning around to follow them. I couldn’t believe my fortune, as I knew they had been spotted in the early morning hours in about the same place, and logically should be miles away! They didn't stick around for long though, a few poses and they were gone…

The next morning I took a chance and went back the same way, drove for an hour or so and by some magic, five beautiful dogs emerged right in front of me. Possibly they were out for a relaxing morning stroll, keeping well below speed limit (both the park’s and their own) at a leisurely 20 km/h. Sometimes they'd stop to have a sniff at their fellow travellers, dog or car apparently didn’t matter. They didn't run into the grass or change their pace just because a few motorized beings decided to come along. Shooting you a glance from time to time, as if to see that everyone was still there. What a fantastic feeling, as if I was actually running along with the dogs! Suddenly they all stopped, starred into the bush and ran off. But after driving for half an hour, again dogs appeared(!), this time seven of them. To be honest, I have no idea if it was the same pack that now was complete, but I got a feeling that these were different dogs. After spending about twenty minutes with them they also decided to disappear, just as suddenly as the others. After a morning like that, you just know that you won’t see anything for the rest of the day… you don’t deserve to! The only unfortunate detail is that my friends weren't with me for this treat, but apparently they had a great time at their wilderness trial, so they weren't too disappointed. I relaxed for an hour or two, having lunch and planned on making it back to camp early. Well, plans are made to be changed...

Making matters really ridiculous, a guy stopped me to say that there were wild dogs lying on the road four to five km away! Because I had already seen dogs three times in less than twenty hours, I didn't rush to get there, but instead enjoyed all the impalas and zebras. After approximately seven km I also started to doubt his word, but three km further down the road, three cars were parked on the right side of the road.

As I starred into the bush, instead of down on the ground I nearly missed them, but I certainly wasn't the only one! When animals are very close, they’re usually more difficult to spot and this was the case with the six dogs lying next to the road, paws and heads actually resting on the road. When the other cars left, I sat alone with the dogs for quite some time. Four of them seemed mostly interested in sleeping in the shade on this hot day. The other two were a bit more active, once all the noise and disturbance was gone.

If the odour was anything to go by, they must recently have been feeding and one dog was begging the other for food. As they went into the grass, the other dog seemed to give in and gave up some of its lunch. The smell of the carcass (that I never managed to find) was actually what made the cars that came after me stop, and ask me what I was looking at!

Back at camp I went for a swim in the pool, happily reflecting on the day's events, with impalas, vervet monkeys and baboons watching while resting on the lawn.

/A

Year of the Mongoose?

To the Chinese, 2011 may be the Year of the Rabbit. In Kruger though, I’m sure it is the Year of the Mongoose. It seems you can’t go around a bend without these little guys scurrying around like crazy... eating, grooming each other, sunbathing or curiously investigating their newfound “shady” friend.

/A

Tuesday 5 April 2011

Like the deserts miss the rain…

I’ve been back in South Africa for approximately two weeks now and it certainly was about time! I have discovered that what I’ve missed most about the bush is:

The amazing nightly concerts with participants ranging from crickets and frogs to owls, hyenas and lions. One night when I was just about falling asleep, I was startled by a noise just outside my tent. I quickly found my torch and looked out the mosquito net window. Just a couple of meters away, on the other side of the camp fence, a hyena had found a spot to rest.

A few days later we heard hyenas calling to each other all through the night and we therefore took a short detour in the early morning to look for them. After only about ten minutes we found them, right where we thought they would be… and we felt very pleased with ourselves (at least I did).The African sunsets, when first all colours are enhanced and take on a golden shimmer. Sometimes this hour is beautiful enough to bring tears to my eyes. Later the sky turns flaming red and dusk settles like a soft hazy pink blanket… what’s not to love?! The elephants! As unbelievable or cliché it may seem, the elephants are probably the animals I’ve missed the most. They are strong enough to push down a sizable tree and smart enough to realize that there are people inside the huge, stinky and noisy beings on four wheels… and yet, they normally accept our presence. I do hope they continue to do so, despite some guides’ less ethical methods to achieve a reaction from them (not our guide, but one in another vehicle). It is usually a better idea to sit tight and let them go about their own business. These two seemed totally oblivious of our presence and interacted with each other instead of us and that is so much more rewarding. /A