Rhino Rescue

The poaching war on rhinos is unfortunately a very real threat to the species. Every day men and women are risking their lives to fight back and save the ones that still remain in the African bush. Last year, at least 1175 rhinos were poached in South Africa alone, and that’s not including the numerous orphaned calves that don’t stand a chance without their mothers. If nothing changes, there’ll be no rhinos left in the wild in ten to fifteen years’ time.A worrying report from a guide out on game drive the other day, told of a young rhino with a suspicious wound. I was able to join the investigation team to find out what had happened. The guide who had found the wounded individual stayed close by the rhino until we arrived, just as the sun was setting.

The rhino in question was located with some other individuals and was still moving around with them, although far from enthusiastically. It was confirmed that the rhino in question had been shot a few days prior. On closer inspection, an entry and exit wound were visible, meaning that the bullet had passed through and was not lodged in the animal. A few phone calls were quickly made to notify those concerned and to call in a helicopter for the following morning. As it was already getting dark, obviously no helicopter would be sent at this late hour and we could only hope they wouldn’t move too far during the night.The next morning a helicopter arrived with the veterinarian, Gerhardus, landing not far from where we had left the rhinos the previous evening. The helicopter was sponsored by Rhino 911, a recently established non-profit organisation trying to make a difference in the fight against poaching. The helicopter had barely touched the ground before it was propelling towards the last known coordinates of the wounded individual.

From the air, they started scanning the area in the direction which the rhino had been moving the previous evening. The ground crew were waiting for news from the air. Often injured animals head off on their own and hide in thickets, so it can be quite a challenge to locate them. Within ten minutes we were told that the rhino had been relocated and the pilot (and co-founder of Rhino 911), Nico, proceeded to push the rhino towards one of the roads in the area. Easy access is of paramount importance as it reduces the amount of time the animal needs to be sedated and worked on. We were in luck and not even 100 m from the road, the rhino was darted successfully. We all grabbed water, medical equipment and towels and hurried through the thickets to where it had stopped.The rhino went down moments after we had reached it. Its position was checked in order to ascertain that it could breathe freely. A towel was quickly thrown over its face so as to not stress it unnecessarily and water was poured over its body at regular intervals to keep it from over-heating. It was a relief to see that the bullet had missed anything vital on its way through the body, giving the rhino a fighting chance of survival. The wound was cleaned numerous times, fluids were pumped into the entry and exit holes and then squeezed out again in a stream of pus and antiseptic liquid, to prevent infection. When Gerhardus was satisfied with the cleaning of the wound, antibiotics were administered and the ears notched, to give this individual his “id-number”.Being this close to a wild rhino and seeing it being helped back to health was an emotional experience that I will never forget. Hopefully, those of us who were there will be able to tell our future guests how we were there when this particular individual was saved and how it spurred us to greater involvement in conservation.

As we finished up and all moved out of the way, the vet stayed behind to give the rhino a reversal drug. In no time, it was up and on wobbly legs the rhino moved off in the direction of its companions. I can’t wait to go out on drive again soon in this area, to see if me and my guests can see him and make sure he is doing well after his horrific ordeal.

If any readers or guests would like to get involved or donate much needed funding to the conservation efforts that take place in Madikwe Game Reserve they can donate to the Madike Concessionaires Forum. This fund is used for the reserve for Anti Poaching work, treating animal emergencies (such as the one we blogged on) and all the other incredible conservation work being done.


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At the Waterhole

The waterhole by the lodge has always seen its fair share of game. Elephants and a large variety of birds are notably the most reliable visitors. The hide at the waterhole plays a vital role, as you can relax in the shade of a large tamboti tree, enjoying the views. Many people have experienced having elephant herds peacefully passing by, just a few metres away, calmly feeding from the bushes nearby.

The beauty of a waterhole is the same as when you embark on a game drive, you never know what to expect from one minute to the next. The amount of animals passing through on a daily basis is amazing. You may be in for a peaceful few hours, relaxing while watching the sunset, only to be surprised by an action packed and thrilling wild dog hunt happening at the last rays of the day. It’s happened to me a couple of times and it’s always what you least expect that’s the most fun.

Little over a year ago, a new project was taking form – the Terrapin hide. The idea was to have a hide in the water itself, getting closer to the action, without disturbing the wildlife. As builders arrived and some noise and activity was going on for a couple of months during the completion of the structure, we worried that the animals would be scared off and avoid the waterhole completely.

It turned out that this wasn’t the case at all. Elephants kept arriving at least once a day, though drinking a bit away from all the commotion, buffaloes patiently waited until sunset in the surrounding tamboti forest and birds totally ignored the fact that anything was different. One night lions even killed an antelope in the middle of the construction site, and the next morning we found hyenas feasting away, as we went out for game drive.

At the opening of the new hide, we were all very excited to experience photography at a different angle and nature has definitely been delivering. As elephants come to drink twice a day during the dry season, there are plenty of opportunities to get some interesting close-ups. They often stay for long periods and this time of the year they start enjoying splashing around, fully submerged in the refreshing water again.

One morning the news went through camp that there were lions at the waterhole and of course this was an opportunity not to be missed. As I arrived with both colleagues and guests, we got a very nice view of one of the most beautiful male lions in the reserve, lying perfectly across from the hide, not even granting us a glance. Later on he was seen mating with a female, in that exact same location, making hide guests very happy, as well as those of us out on drive.

I’ve always enjoyed late afternoon birding around the waterhole, as the golden light colours everything magical and many species come down to drink, bathe or fish. Often there seems to be a competition going on between kingfishers, cormorants and herons… fish after fish is being pulled out, to photographers’ great delight. Capturing them actually diving in or catching the fish is not the easiest, but pictures of them after the catch, with water dripping from their prey are also very rewarding. At eye level with the water, the experience feels close up and truly personal.

A few days ago, some of the guests opted to spend the morning at the hide, instead of going out on drive… something which can prove to be a wise decision. All of a sudden impalas came bursting out of the bushes, rushing past the waterhole. A few minutes later, the reason for this was revealed when a cheetah came trotting along, totally out of breath. Even though his hunting attempt had been unsuccessful, he allowed us a great few minutes as he relaxed in the shade, catching his breath before heading off again.

I’m still waiting for the perfect picture of a kingfisher emerging from the water with a fish in his mouth, water droplets frozen, looking like liquid gold or a leopard drinking at the water’s edge one misty morning. There’s no doubt in my mind that the opportunities are there, I just also need to be there, at the right time.

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Bush Lane 2016

Walking safaris are a popular activity to do whilst in the bush, they do however come with an element of danger. Did you know in order for guides to lead walks in Madikwe they have to pass “Bush Lane” first? Madikwe Game Reserve guides have to prove themselves competent when it comes to rifle shooting just in case that rare occasion arises, so a few times each month they hold training and evaluations at the two shooting ranges in the reserve.

Photo by Ernst

Training is taken very seriously and guides are expected to be on top form. You need to be able to place at least three out of four shots within a 12cm diameter circle, at a distance of 30metres, as well as shooting three targets at 30, 20 and 10 metres, respectively, within 15 seconds. To be able to lead bush walks, you need to up your game and pass the Bush Lane assessment as well, which is arranged three/four times a year in Madikwe. If you pass, it means you are able to lead bush walks in the reserve for the coming year. I am always proud that we have such high safety standards.

Bush Lane normally takes place over a few days, as there are many guides that need to be slotted in, mostly in between game drives and walks, as most of us are still working our regular hours as well. Hence the hours between ten and two, in the heat of the day, are the most popular and hectic. Guides who are on leave or don’t have guests can choose to shoot in the early mornings, before it gets dreadfully hot. About six-eight assessments per day can be conducted, while the 30m groupings and 30, 20, 10 evaluations will also be done.

The guides who are qualified to conduct the assessments, as well as a few hang-arounds helping out with the logistics, camp out at the location for the duration of Bush Lane. Normally a few of the newer guides in the reserve will volunteer to do this, entailing going with on each assessment, carrying ammunition, picking up spend cases, replacing targets, as well as cooking, cleaning up, digging a long-drop, doing all sorts of maintenance, etc. It is very hard work in blazing heat and for long hours, but also rather rewarding and it’s a great way of getting to know a lot of the guides in the reserve, not to mention that if you do a decent job, you have proven yourself to the whole of the reserve.

If you’re visiting Bush Lane or doing your assessment, rule number one is to bring ice! Camping out for a few days without electricity makes it difficult to keep food and liquids cold and fresh, so ice is naturally vital. One day two of the girls even brought ice cream from the general dealer an hour away, packed in lots of ice… what a treat in the 35ºC heat!

Bush Lane will take you about an hour or so and you start off with your pre-trail brief, going through safety, hand signals, what to do and not to do on a walk. You need to make sure you’ve brought your First Aid kit, water and other necessities. The first exercise is a timed, blind-folded loading of your rifle. Once this is completed you can start the simulated walk.  As you walk on the game paths, through thickets and drainage lines, moving animal targets (controlled by the assessor) may pop up any moment. You need to be prepared, but at the same time walking at normal Sunday stroll pace, not in hunting mode.

Photo by Ernst

Some scenarios involve only one and others multiple dangerous game targets, at varying distances. To avoid total carnage, you can use a maximum of two rounds per target. Not only do you need to be accurate with your shot placement and consider safety at all times, but also make sure you’re aware of how many rounds you’ve fired, so that you don’t try to fire without any rounds left, or trying to load too many rounds into your rifle. You also have to make sure you don’t drop any rounds, keep your group in check and keep an eye out for non-threatening animals, that aren’t supposed to be shot (like zebra and monkey targets), just to test your observational skills.

Because there’s always a few much more experienced people walking with you on the assessment, and there are quite a number of targets popping up out of nowhere, there’s a lot of pressure and stress involved. Even the more experienced guides and better shots in the reserve find it nerve wrecking and may get flustered and intimidated, which (I guess) is part of the point. You know there won’t be any real lions charging you, so the added stress of other guides scrutinising your every move and the sheer number of targets at least gets your adrenalin pumping and goes a little bit towards simulating the real stress you’d be under if a real charge would ever happen. You also know that if you don’t pass, you’ll not be able to fulfil a part of the job you probably were hired to do, taking guests on walks… and there may be three-four months until your next evaluation. This is why most lead trails guides try to come around more than once a year, so that this hopefully won’t happen.

As the sun starts to set and the heat dispatches, shooting stops. A fire is re-started and cooking commences, while everyone takes a stand-by for the much needed bush shower. It is always amazing how great anything tastes, cooked on a fire in the bush, roast chicken, chilli con carne, beef potjie… you name it. As it normally takes a few hours for the food to be prepared, there’s plenty of time for catching up with friends you may not meet too often while working and sharing stories around the fire. Going to bed while hyenas are whooping in the distance and branches are breaking nearby is something I never get tired of. The only thing disturbing the peace is the horrific snoring of a few of your colleagues.

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