Costa Rica - the Pacific Coast

Costa Rica has been high on my bucket list for many years, due to its numerous parks and the abundance of wildlife. As David had been there a few times before, we swapped roles for a change. He had to do the most of the planning and reservations, while I took over the role of cheerleader and map reader. I wanted turtles and parrots; everything else was a bonus! Secretly I was also crossing fingers and toes for tapirs and quetzals, but didn't want to seem greedy...

We were in total agreement about focusing on wildlife and started out towards the Pacific coast as soon as we'd swallowed the shock of the car rental prices. Our first stop on the way was the obligatory crocodile bridge in Tarcoles, on the coast. Enormous beasts eagerly eyeing the pale monkeys 10 metres above them are an incredible sight. Some still feed these giants... and maybe all the chicken have something to do with these guys looking pretty well fed.

We stayed right between Quepos and Manuel Antonio for the first few nights, checking out the surrounding parks and reserves. Manuel Antonio was obviously highest on our list, but the smaller places, with their quiet hiking trails and little waterfalls were really great visits as well.

We'd be all alone in these jungle trails, marvelling at the birds and other little critters. Nature here is all emerald green with brightly coloured beings, like random gemstones scattered in all the greenery... just mind blowing.

A visit to Manuel Antonio is a must, even though many claim it is too crowded and that you don't see much, unless you hire a guide. We weren't deterred by this, but decided to go in the early morning to experience the jungle waking up... just like most other tourists, unfortunately. However, most of them just rush along on the main trail, leaving us able to explore the lesser travelled side tracks on our own. We especially enjoyed the fact that few people we did see were walking fast and talking... and then complained about not seeing a lot!?

The two of us and another, European, couple were the only ones to see the squirrel monkeys. When we spotted a deer, its only other spectator was a little girl who was trying to get her mother to look as well. Unfortunately, the adults were to busy talking to notice the wildlife, their kid or anything else... We were lucky enough to see three of the four monkey species, sloths and countless lizards, birds and butterflies, so I really can not believe anyone saying this place isn't worth visiting!

The sloths were a real treat, I'd never imagined that you'd see them so easily and that they don't care about your presence at all, even though you're on foot! Best bet is to look where a small group of people, led by a guide, are craning their necks... it is usually a sloth. Spotting them by your self is also very possible, though they won't normally be giving themselves away through noise or movement. One mother and baby had decided to take a mid-day nap right outside the ladies' room. However, the little one was safely hidden away from eager photographers like me, in its mother's embrace.

The beaches in the park are like something out of a movie, with turquoise water, palm fringed golden beaches and wildlife scurrying amongst the beach goers. Apart from the cheeky capuchin monkeys hoping for leftovers, there was an abundance of iguanas competing with us for the best spots in the shade.

I also had my first encounter with a couple of raccoons, a mother and a young one, trying their luck as people left their belongings on the beach for a dip in the ocean. Being an American, David was slightly amused by my first-time enthusiasm for these animals, whom I followed around for a good forty minutes, before they were chased away by one of the park guides. 

However, the greatest sighting for me this day was the scarlet macaw that showed up as we came back to town. I jumped out of the car, camera in hand, slaloming through traffic, as the parrot landed in a nearby tree. I was speechless at the fact that my wish for a macaw had come true so early on and with virtually no effort... not yet realizing I'd catch quite a few more, before the end of my Costa Rican visit.

/A

Manatee Magic

I've never really had any great urge to visit the US, apart from maybe Alaska and the desert parks of the south west. Florida was never even on the map! However, as David came across an article about manatees, this would all quickly change...

In winter, the West Indian manatees gather in great numbers at the hot springs of Florida, to avoid the cold temperatures in the Mexican Gulf. They cannot survive if it's colder than 15 degrees Celsius and even a prolonged stay in waters below 20 causes cold stress syndrome and is sometimes fatal. Hence Citrus county on the western coast of Florida sees an influx of manatees between November and March each year.

At the end of January, we made our way from Tampa northward, to try our luck. The days were beautifully sunny and dry, with temperatures ranging from 8 to 17 most of the time. Arriving at our manatee themed Airbnb in Homosassa, we were greeted by our super enthusiastic, talkative and knowledgeable hosts, who also rent out kayaks and snorkelling equipment. We quickly made a plan for our five nights in this small town and decided to head out early next morning, to the famously clear waters of Crystal Springs. 

Excited, but also a bit sceptical, we were dropped off the next morning, after having rented some gear. The water might be pleasant at the springs, but the air temperature calls for wet suits this time of the year. Kayaking the few kilometres towards the spring was a great experience in itself, with lots of birds making their presence known. 

Seeing the first pair of nostrils from the first individual was pure joy! There was a group of manatees feeding a bit away from the spring and really got my heart pumping.

As we closed in on the spring, I expected a crowd, but was happily surprised to see only a couple of kayaks and one park ranger out on the water. The area closest to the spring is fenced off to humans, so that the animals can choose to be left alone in the relative warmth and swim in and out as they please. On land, the area is a State park, where you pay an entrance fee to see the animals from land. Getting wet when it's only 9 degrees may not be tempting to normal people... 

But, who said we're normal!? We secured our kayaks and under we went... I had not known what to expect and probably hadn't really given it much thought. I've seen pictures, but we all know it is never as good as that in real life. But... not only are manatees huge, they're also extremely curious and gentle! They come right up to you to check you out and will even let the young ones close in on you. No words can describe these encounters... Not even the pictures do it justice...

After an hour and a half, even 22 degree water feels chilly and we had to return to town. Happy to be wearing wet suits we had a bit of a rough paddle back, against the current. We returned our rental gear just before closing and made arrangements to pick it up again the next morning, to go to a different spot. Back at our accommodation, we were grateful to jump into the hot tub in the garden, watching woodpeckers and sipping coffee until it got dark.

Next morning we headed to a lesser known spot, recommended by our hosts; a camping area right on the river. The boat launch site is actually the best for manatees, but we started out by going down river, just to have a look around. We weren't disappointed. Being all alone on the river, with birds everywhere and a couple of manatees coming up for air here and there was pure magic! The water was pretty murky on the river however and we turned back after a couple of hours, after having had lunch in the kayaks on a sunny little creek.

Even though the water wasn't as clear as the previous day, it was much better than down stream and all in all, pretty good. This place felt much more wild and we could see why it had been recommended. The manatees here were even friendlier than at the more popular spot and frequently came up to the very few snorkelers for a good scratch. 

In general, the rule is no touching of any wildlife... But, in Citrus county, there is an exception. If the manatee touches you first, you are allowed to scratch them with one hand... and one hand only! Of course you can not chase them or hold on to them. However, there's no rule saying they can't hold on to you... or even nibble you!

On our way to the east coast, we made sure to pass the Blue Springs. This is the spot that sees the highest density of manatees, with congregations of several hundred in the winter months, though manatees actually are solitary creatures. You aren't allowed in the water in any way in this State park, which is very understandable, as there are thousands of people visiting here every day. It is however really pretty and photogenic with it's turquoise crystal clear waters. We spent a few hours in the afternoon, marvelling at the sight.

As the sun was getting low, the light was amazing and it was quite fun to watch the manatees and cormorants checking each other out... Though at one point. I guess the nibbling got to be too much.

After a few days of birding on the east coast, we planned on heading south, towards the Everglades. We were talking about how we both found it incredibly sad that we'd never see manatees again and didn't know how to deal with life if didn't... so, on a whim we decided to go all the way back to Homosassa! We called up our hosts from the previous week and made sure to stop for a land based view of our beloved manatees, before reaching our accommodations, hot tub and a cheap little Mexican restaurant once more. 

Next day we had to rent a canoe from the campsite office, as our hosts had made previous arrangements for their kayaks with the other couple staying over. We didn't really mind, as we weren't going very far... only about 100 m out from the office and launch site, to yet again being embraced by the gentle giants. Just as last time, there weren't many other people here and one manatee calf just loved seeking attention from each one of the visitors. I would have thought the mother might object, but she happily swam around getting belly rubs here and there, enjoying life.

As it was a relatively warm day, we didn't rent wet suits, but got out of the water every now and then to warm up on our shared canoe... Oh how the tiny little flying blood suckers loved that decision! I was covered in some sort of local remedy, but it only sort of half worked. A hot tub soak and a scorching hot shower later on took care of most of the itchiness though. 

Early next morning, we left this area once more, after a last goodbye from the jetty. However the year turned out after this, at least the manatees of Citrus county gave us a great start to 2020.

/A