Costa Rica has been
high on my bucket list for many years, due to its numerous parks and the abundance of wildlife. As David had been there a few times before, we
swapped roles for a change. He had to do the most of the planning and
reservations, while I took over the role of cheerleader and map reader. I wanted
turtles and parrots; everything else was a bonus! Secretly I was also
crossing fingers and toes for tapirs and quetzals, but didn't want to
seem greedy...
We were in total agreement about focusing on
wildlife and started out towards the Pacific coast as soon as we'd
swallowed the shock of the car rental prices. Our first stop on the
way was the obligatory crocodile bridge in Tarcoles, on the coast.
Enormous beasts eagerly eyeing the pale monkeys 10 metres above them
are an incredible sight. Some still feed these giants... and maybe all the chicken have something to do with these guys
looking pretty well fed.
We stayed right between
Quepos and Manuel Antonio for the first few nights, checking out the
surrounding parks and reserves. Manuel Antonio was obviously highest
on our list, but the smaller places, with their quiet hiking trails
and little waterfalls were really great visits as well.
We'd be all
alone in these jungle trails, marvelling at the birds and other
little critters. Nature here is all emerald green with brightly
coloured beings, like random gemstones scattered in all the
greenery... just mind blowing.
A visit to Manuel Antonio is a
must, even though many claim it is too crowded and that you don't see
much, unless you hire a guide. We weren't deterred by this, but
decided to go in the early morning to experience the jungle waking
up... just like most other tourists, unfortunately. However, most of them just
rush along on the main trail, leaving us able to explore the lesser
travelled side tracks on our own. We especially enjoyed the fact that
few people we did see were walking fast and talking... and then
complained about not seeing a lot!? 
The two of us and another, European, couple were the only ones to see the squirrel monkeys. When we
spotted a deer, its only other spectator was a little girl who was
trying to get her mother to look as well. Unfortunately, the adults
were to busy talking to notice the wildlife, their kid or anything
else... We were lucky enough to see three of the four monkey
species, sloths and countless lizards, birds and butterflies, so I really can not believe anyone saying this place isn't worth visiting!
The
sloths were a real treat, I'd never imagined that you'd see them so
easily and that they don't care about your presence at all, even
though you're on foot! Best bet is to look where a small group of people, led by a guide, are craning their necks... it is usually a sloth. Spotting them by your self is also very possible, though they won't normally be giving themselves away through noise or movement. One mother and baby had decided to take a
mid-day nap right outside the ladies' room. However, the little one
was safely hidden away from eager photographers like me, in its
mother's embrace.
The beaches in the park are like something
out of a movie, with turquoise water, palm fringed golden beaches and
wildlife scurrying amongst the beach goers. Apart from the cheeky
capuchin monkeys hoping for leftovers, there was an abundance of
iguanas competing with us for the best spots in the shade. 
I also had
my first encounter with a couple of raccoons, a mother and a young
one, trying their luck as people left their belongings on the beach
for a dip in the ocean. Being an American, David was slightly amused
by my first-time enthusiasm for these animals, whom I followed around
for a good forty minutes, before they were chased away by one of the
park guides. 
However, the greatest sighting for me this day
was the scarlet macaw that showed up as we came back to town. I
jumped out of the car, camera in hand, slaloming through traffic, as
the parrot landed in a nearby tree. I was speechless at the fact that
my wish for a macaw had come true so early on and with virtually no
effort... not yet realizing I'd catch quite a few more, before the end of
my Costa Rican visit.
/A
