Friday, 28 December 2012

Christmas ham on the loose

While most other Swedes were having their Christmas ham, this was the closest to a proper ham I got. He was later joined by guineafowl as well as a nyala... quite the buffet!
It's the first time I've ever seen a bush pig, as they usually are quite shy nocturnal creatures, unlike their cousins, the warthogs. Sitting quietly on the porch of your hut for an hour can be rewarding. I also had a visit from an unsuspecting vervet monkey, who got a real shock when not noticing me until he was only a few metres away.

Even though I got neither ham nor presents for Christmas, I got to fall asleep to the cacophony of the African bush at night... and that makes up for almost anything.
 
/A

Wednesday, 11 July 2012

The Great Grey

No, we're not referring to the Swedish summer, but rather a first time visitor to Lidingö...

Even if we aren't out on a great African adventure at the moment, there are excellent wildlife experiences to be had on our home turf as well. We've seen quite a few foxes this spring and summer, some almost literally on our doorstep (!) and we also discovered a badger den with two cubs in the woods, right next to the running trail!

The real excitement though has been stirred up by a visitor from the north, the Great Grey Owl. It was discovered at the beginning of May in a small nature reserve and has since been spotted on several occasions in the same area.
Since we had heard that the owl had been spotted in one location especially, we decided to go there and have a look last Sunday, when the weather wasn't fantastic and that hopefully would entail less people out for a walk in the area. Unbelievably the owl sat on a fence post a couple of metres from the road, totally ignoring us, once it had curiously checked us out!

Last year was an unusually good year for lemmings in the northern parts of Sweden and therefore there are many owls this year. Since their prey are more scarce this year, the lack of food is causing them to venture outside of their normal range, spreading even to the very south of Sweden. Whether these individuals will stay or not is very uncertain, but we're hoping“our” owl will settle here and eventually get some company..?
We stayed with it for quite some time, as it kept a look-out for anything small that moved. When a vehicle stopped very close to the fence post where the owl was sitting though, he decided enough is enough and took off into the trees on the other side of the field.
As we had been feeding the resident mosquito population for an hour by that time, we had also had enough for now, but we might be back another day... once we've recovered from the blood loss.

/A & J

Thursday, 7 April 2011

Running with the dogs

The African wilddog is not an every day occurance (not even an every month one) and I encountered them only about five times, in six months of guiding in Kruger last year. They are a definite favorite with many people and usually stir up quite a commotion when spotted, as they commonly run along the main roads. Their restlessness and stamina makes them hard to keep up with and almost impossible to go in search of.

Heading towards camp one evening, six dark shapes came running towards me and I saw cars turning around to follow them. I couldn’t believe my fortune, as I knew they had been spotted in the early morning hours in about the same place, and logically should be miles away! They didn't stick around for long though, a few poses and they were gone…

The next morning I took a chance and went back the same way, drove for an hour or so and by some magic, five beautiful dogs emerged right in front of me. Possibly they were out for a relaxing morning stroll, keeping well below speed limit (both the park’s and their own) at a leisurely 20 km/h. Sometimes they'd stop to have a sniff at their fellow travellers, dog or car apparently didn’t matter. They didn't run into the grass or change their pace just because a few motorized beings decided to come along. Shooting you a glance from time to time, as if to see that everyone was still there. What a fantastic feeling, as if I was actually running along with the dogs! Suddenly they all stopped, starred into the bush and ran off. But after driving for half an hour, again dogs appeared(!), this time seven of them. To be honest, I have no idea if it was the same pack that now was complete, but I got a feeling that these were different dogs. After spending about twenty minutes with them they also decided to disappear, just as suddenly as the others. After a morning like that, you just know that you won’t see anything for the rest of the day… you don’t deserve to! The only unfortunate detail is that my friends weren't with me for this treat, but apparently they had a great time at their wilderness trial, so they weren't too disappointed. I relaxed for an hour or two, having lunch and planned on making it back to camp early. Well, plans are made to be changed...

Making matters really ridiculous, a guy stopped me to say that there were wild dogs lying on the road four to five km away! Because I had already seen dogs three times in less than twenty hours, I didn't rush to get there, but instead enjoyed all the impalas and zebras. After approximately seven km I also started to doubt his word, but three km further down the road, three cars were parked on the right side of the road.

As I starred into the bush, instead of down on the ground I nearly missed them, but I certainly wasn't the only one! When animals are very close, they’re usually more difficult to spot and this was the case with the six dogs lying next to the road, paws and heads actually resting on the road. When the other cars left, I sat alone with the dogs for quite some time. Four of them seemed mostly interested in sleeping in the shade on this hot day. The other two were a bit more active, once all the noise and disturbance was gone.

If the odour was anything to go by, they must recently have been feeding and one dog was begging the other for food. As they went into the grass, the other dog seemed to give in and gave up some of its lunch. The smell of the carcass (that I never managed to find) was actually what made the cars that came after me stop, and ask me what I was looking at!

Back at camp I went for a swim in the pool, happily reflecting on the day's events, with impalas, vervet monkeys and baboons watching while resting on the lawn.

/A

Year of the Mongoose?

To the Chinese, 2011 may be the Year of the Rabbit. In Kruger though, I’m sure it is the Year of the Mongoose. It seems you can’t go around a bend without these little guys scurrying around like crazy... eating, grooming each other, sunbathing or curiously investigating their newfound “shady” friend.

/A

Tuesday, 5 April 2011

Like the deserts miss the rain…

I’ve been back in South Africa for approximately two weeks now and it certainly was about time! I have discovered that what I’ve missed most about the bush is:

The amazing nightly concerts with participants ranging from crickets and frogs to owls, hyenas and lions. One night when I was just about falling asleep, I was startled by a noise just outside my tent. I quickly found my torch and looked out the mosquito net window. Just a couple of meters away, on the other side of the camp fence, a hyena had found a spot to rest.

A few days later we heard hyenas calling to each other all through the night and we therefore took a short detour in the early morning to look for them. After only about ten minutes we found them, right where we thought they would be… and we felt very pleased with ourselves (at least I did).The African sunsets, when first all colours are enhanced and take on a golden shimmer. Sometimes this hour is beautiful enough to bring tears to my eyes. Later the sky turns flaming red and dusk settles like a soft hazy pink blanket… what’s not to love?! The elephants! As unbelievable or cliché it may seem, the elephants are probably the animals I’ve missed the most. They are strong enough to push down a sizable tree and smart enough to realize that there are people inside the huge, stinky and noisy beings on four wheels… and yet, they normally accept our presence. I do hope they continue to do so, despite some guides’ less ethical methods to achieve a reaction from them (not our guide, but one in another vehicle). It is usually a better idea to sit tight and let them go about their own business. These two seemed totally oblivious of our presence and interacted with each other instead of us and that is so much more rewarding. /A

Sunday, 6 June 2010

Jaws

It has for a while been a dream of mine to see sharks up close, in their natural habitat. One way of doing so is shark cage diving, which you can do in Gansbaai, three hours east of Cape Town. Since this activity starts early in the morning we decided to stay in Gansbaai over night, to avoid having to get up at four in the morning.

Heading out the waves were pretty high and the boat was bouncing around and slamming down hard after each wave... but we were told that it actually was quite a calm day!When we reached Seal Island (yes, Walker Bay also has a Seal Island) the crew started to pour a scent trail of “fish soup” into the water and it only took about one minute before the first Great White showed up.Important to point out is that the encounter doesn't make the sharks associate people with food because the bits and pieces in the soup are too small for them to actually get anything to eat; only the gulls get to feast. The group consisted of six Americans and four Swedes and was divided into three smaller groups , since a maximum of four people can go into the cage at the same time. Jonny and I were in the first group jumping into the cage, wearing wet suites and goggles. The water was quite cold and in a wet suite two sizes too big, I wasn't very happy. From deck the crew shouted “Down down!” as another shark approached the boat. A deep gulp of air and we stared into the blue-green depths for a glimpse of the most feared predator in the oceans. The cold water was totally forgotten when the Great white propelled itself from below us toward the bait. For a second it was close enough to touch... if we had been stupid enough to try something like that. At first the fascination made me forget that I had my camera with me, but as the four sharks kept swimming by us, I remembered... You might think an experience like this is frightening but we were actually too excited to be afraid. Since quite a few of the others this day were suffering from sea sickness, there was enough space for me to jump into the cage with the other groups as well, which entailed that I was in the water the whole time! After an hour in the huge wet suite, in 14 degree water, I was blue and shaking... but happy.

/A

The Mountain

Table Mountain really dominates Cape Town and encountering a view of a mountain at every turn, it's impossible not to get the urge to climb it. Norman, however, fought the urge bravely and we therefore took on the mountain without him. Luckily the weather gods were on our side and we woke up to a lovely winter's day. Since it is 1086 metres high, it's enough for the seasons to "change" while ascending. You start out in 20 degrees, wearing shorts and end up wearing a thick sweater and a jacket , regretting not bringing gloves, since the temperature at the summit this day was only about 10 degrees.Every 20-30 metres or so, we had to stop and admire the view (and to catch your breaths). The vegetation on the mountain side is mainly fynbos, which is unique to this region and the endemic Proteas are probably the most well known of this biome's plants. Taking it slowly, the climb from the lower cable car station at, 300 metres, to the top takes approximately two hours. For a while it looked like we were going to be wrapped in the famous "table cloth", but as we reached our goal the clouds started to scatter again. Satisfied with our achievement we celebrated by eating an expensive lunch at the Table Mountain café before taking the four minutes (!) long cable car ride down.
/A