Flying high

I have always wanted to fly in a hot air balloon and when I got the opportunity about a month ago, I of course jumped at the chance.

One early mid-winter morning at Entabeni I was woken up by a phone call from the balloon pilot, to be informed that there was a spot available, if I could get there within half an hour! Urgently I phoned the general manager to get a ride to the take-off spot at the lodge Hanglip, on the other side of the reserve. I was told I didn't wake him up, but I'm pretty sure I did...

 

It was still pitch black outside with a temperature of around zero degrees. As we were driving through the reserve I questioned the sense of doing this in winter. It took us a bit more than half an hour from the phone call until arrival, but fortunately they had waited for me. I climbed into the basket and got the very short version of the safety brief.

Soon we were taking off and I was surprised to find that it was rather warm and cosy as the warm air doesn't only fill up the balloon... so, hot air ballooning on a cold morning is actually a good idea!

Sunrise in the bush is always stunning and from the air even more so. The mountains looked like they were on fire and the mist was rising from the dams... how can you ever want to be anywhere else?!

The wind had changed direction, so we weren't going east as planned. Slowly we travelled west and even though that wasn't according to schedule, we saw elephants drinking in the distance. For me, it couldn't have been planned better!

 

Unfortunately they did look up at the funny huge object and decided they didn't like what they were seeing and hence took off into the bush. The matriarch stopped for a while, stood tall and shook her head at us, before following the others. It's hard to spot them in the photo, but I promise, they're there, along the river.

A lot of impalas, waterbuck and kudus were also spotted, as well as something that we finally agreed on must have been a duiker. We also came across a game viewer with some of my guests in it and from the excessive waving and shouting that was going on, I gathered that it could only be my core group - the crazy A-team!

We eventually landed in a field just outside the game reserve. The cows that were grazing there weren't as alert as the wild animals and they didn't really notice us until we were about ten metres above them, but then they got a bit of a fright and quickly moved away.

We were also welcomed by two farm workers that came running, grinning and chatting away in Afrikaans. Even though only one person in the group knew the language, I think we all understood exactly what they were saying... they were amazed by the balloon and excited to finally seeing one up close! I don't think that any trespassers have ever received a warmer welcome.

After the flight, we naturally had some sparkling wine and got diplomas. We were all happy (and some of us also starving!) as we made our chilly journey back to Hanglip for breakfast.

 

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Too close for comfort?

Normally you try to avoid driving up too close to the animals, as not to disturb their natural behaviour, but that of course doesn't stop them from approaching you to investigate. When these gigantic creatures stop just a metre or two from your vehicle usually one can hear the entire group of guests taking a deep breath... and hold it.

This female elephant has no problem at all closing in on you to have a good look. This time around she stood there contemplating us for a while, until she finally was convinced by our ranger, to walk away. Speaking calmly to elephants may have the effect that they realize that you're not of any threat to them and then go about their own business again.

Another day we had the fortune of bumping into a female rhino with her calf walking along the road. As they went into the bush we continued on the road ahead. Of course, the huge lady changed her mind and decided that the road was the best mode of travelling after all. As she has no road sense, she just cut in front of us... not even signalling before doing so! A close encounter that probably even startled her.

I was amazed by her climbing skills, as she came up the dam wall onto the road again! Standing three metres above a rhino, on a steep bank, is apparently not a safe spot! Her calf struggled a bit before also making it and then quickly running in front of her, true white rhino style.

Crocodiles ususally head for water as soon as you get close enough for decent photos. But this fellow was probably soaking up the last warmth of the afternoon from the sandy track and so had no intention to budge, not even a little.

This caused a bit of a traffic jam with three vehicles getting stuck on the dam wall, enjoying his company for a while, before having to turn around the same way as we came.

 

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Misty mornings

Winter in South Africa is always a bit of a shock, even though you've experienced it before. Most houses in South Africa aren't really made for winters, as their real winter is only two months long or something like that... as if it's ok to freeze your butt off for 15-20% of your life!? You learn to dress quickly in the mornings though and I'm starting to understand the idea of always wearing shoes indoors, but of course, I also brought my slippers, like a proper grandma.

The early mornings in the bush are wonderfully still and beautiful in the mist. The frost in the grass however gives you an indication that game drives at 6:30 in open vehicles may be a bit chilly... though I was told it hasn't been really cold yet while I've been here, as the temperature only dropped to about -4 one night... I usually get frost bites when it drops below +25!

A game drive is however always a game drive and it's one of very few activities I'll gladly get up before daybreak and accept being frozen solid for. As the sun rises you'd expect the air to warm up, but this is actually the coldest time of the day..!

Some mornings, I could have sworn that even the animals had had enough of the cold and were hibernating in their nests... especially the lions and the elephants! The afternoon drives were less of a slap in the face with a bag of ice cubes and we were treated with some really good elephant and cheetah sightings.

On the day of departure, after a week at Entabeni, a small group among my guests hadn't yet seen any lions and they were crossing all fingers available, as we headed out for one last morning drive. Fortunately there were other groups out on the same mission and with combined effort, the southern side of the reserve was combed through. There were tracks all over the place and eventually one of the rangers struck gold. Of course, we made our way there in a heartbeat.

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Big 5 marathon

This past weekend, more than 300 crazy people from all over the world had decided that running around in a Big 5 area was a great idea. Most of them ran a full marathon, others “only” a half... but they all had to climb up and down the dreaded 2.2 km long Yellowwood road... which is a 500 m climb! As if this wasn't enough, deep sand and wobbly stones made the route a challenge, even when there weren't any hills.

The previous day we had all been driven around the track on route inspection; 42 km took 3 hours! Needless to say, I was pretty thankful that the 2 month flu I had had, actually had made me sane. I'm afraid I would have been among the crazy ones otherwise! Instead, I was positioned at the start and finish line taking photos etc... though I must say that I did feel my legs twitch a bit as the herd raced off.

On route inspection we had seen a lot of wildlife and some people had been a bit concerned, especially regarding elephants and rhinos...

As the last runners were struggling with the soft sand at the lower escarpment, they were blissfully unaware of the lions closing in on them. Luckily, the cats stopped a few hundred metres away, but still, that information might have made them hurry up Yellowwood a bit faster. At the very end, only 1 km from the finish line, a herd of elephants also made their approach. This time however, a runner spotted the animals and ran back to the nearest ranger for protection. Seems to have been a rather great race actually and all the runners were very happy and many said it was their favourite marathon so far. Next year... maybe!

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Entabeni

As you drive into Entabeni game reserve, the huge rock that towers above the upper plains comes into view. Though I've been there three times this season, but it's still a sight that fills me with joy... maybe it's the hibernating geologist in me that stirs at the sight?

Usually there is also plenty of antelopes and other game grazing in the area, really perfecting the picture.

The altitude of the upper section of the reserve is a few hundred metres higher than the lower and therefore also a bit chillier, with misty mornings... almost romantically so some days.

Travelling down the 2 km long Yellowwood road the first time is an exhilarating experience and I always get the urge to throw myself off the highest cliff and soar like an eagle down into the valley below. However, since my flying abilities are more like those of a penguin, it will have to wait..? Not all the guests were impressed with the road and actually complained that the bush is too uncomfortable and bumpy!

With this view though, comfort is not the priority I would say.

Descending out of the mist into the more varied vegetation of the lower section, the scenery changes dramatically. Water lily filled dams truly make the beautiful background of the escarpment justice.

As you go up to the plains again, you can't always see more than a couple of metres of the road in front of you, which is rather disconcerting at night, as anything may show up in the dark. One night, as we were making our way back up along the steepest part of Yellowwood, a wildebeest surprised us on the narrow road, but maybe not as much as we surprised him.

I thought he would have a heart attack as he froze for a second in the bright headlights of the game viewer, before rushing past us down hill with gravel flying around him as he went... making MY heart skip a beat.

On a late evening ascent we came across a fairly sluggish puffadder at the top. Guests often ask about snakes and whether they are common, but this was actually my first sighting at Entabeni, on the last drive of the season!

In the cool night, the slow moving serpent was of course the centre of attention while flashes cut through the night, before making our way to a braai under the starry African night sky.

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Reptile rescue

Chobe National park in northern Botswana is probably best known for its number of elephants and large herds. Viewing these large animals calmly feeding on the river banks, as we slowly passed them on a river boat was fantastic.

We also went out on three drives in the park and thereby managed to see four of the big five, but who's counting, right ;-)

Even though I was glad that the guests got to experience the big game on this trip, I think the most photographed creature of our Chobe experience was probably of the smaller variety... at the lodge! Around lunch time one of the days, there was a huge commotion down by the water. Of course one of my guests came running, as they had noticed my fascination with the slithering sort.

This poor dude was just chilling out, hiding amongst the dry leaves on the river bank. But of course someone had spotted the puffadder, as it made the mistake of actually shifting position slightly. As always when a snake is discovered I get a bit nervous that it won't end well. Soon quite an audience had assembled and not only the human kind...

The vervet monkeys at Chobe River lodge are extremely cheeky and also rather aggressive. As I tried to chase one of them away from the lunch table one day, it made a couple of mock charges... but I could see in his eyes that the third time would most probably be very real and I gave up the chase, although standing my ground to defend my food, of course. Eventually it decided to raid another table a bit further away. They don't have much respect for females, no matter how confident you initially feel...

 

The lodge staff had fortunately called the nearby reptile centre and to everyone's delight, they showed up about an hour later.

The puffadder was quickly secured by the reptile guy and and he received quite a round of applause and some cheers. I guess we were all happy to see the snake safely removed by his hands, instead of a shovel...

...Well, maybe the other primates in the audience weren't as appreciative ;-)

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Delta danger II

Before heading off to Namibia I had bought myself a so-called black light, an ultraviolet torch. This is used by weirdos to look for scorpions in the dark of night, so I of course had to get one! Namibia is absolutely crawling with these arachnids in some places, but to my disappointment I didn't find any in the desert, as I had expected. But, as usual, when you stop looking for something – you find it... and not always where you expect.

I was going to bed the second night at Guma lodge in Botswana, on the western outskirts of Okavango, and was conducting my usual bed time routine of getting all the delta's mosquitoes and other bugs out from underneath my mosquito net. I couldn't believe my eyes when I found the smallest scorpion I've ever seen, on the inside of the mosquito net! This creature wasn't more than 2.5 cm long, but had a proportionally large tail and small pincers... and we all know what that means; danger!

I didn't waste any time, but jumped out of bed as if it was on fire and rushed into the bathroom, grabbing a glass and leaping back into bed again. Carefully scooping it into the one glass and covering it with another, I was satisfied to have caught it and thoroughly enjoyed my new toy (the torch) for quite a while, before falling to sleep with my temporary pet in a glass next to my bed.

The tiny creature was passed around the dinner table next evening, before we went out in the dark so that I could show off my black light and explain about the fluorescent chemicals in the exoskeleton, etc. I realize I should have taken a photograph or two, but for once in my life, I was too fascinated to think of it, so I'm borrowing a picture, to give an idea of what they look like in ultraviolet light; awesome!

Me and two of the rangers spent over two hours each, trying to identify the creature, but didn't get any the wiser. We finally agreed it was probably a Deathstalker, or a relative thereof. Could there be a better name for a scorpion?! Of course I released this little guy, sneaking away to do so, in case someone hadn't bonded with him and wanted him gone.

Some guests were a bit confused as to why a person walks around with an ultraviolet torch... Me? I'm just questioning the fact that I didn't buy one ages ago.

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