Wednesday 19 February 2014

Wild walks

For quite a few years I've been wanting to go on a Wilderness Trail in Kruger. So when the possibility of doing so presented itself in December, I didn't hesitate.

This was the first time I flew to Kruger and as the rolling hills and granite koppies came into sight, my heart was pumping harder with joy. As I stepped out into the small and rather beautiful terminal building, I heard someone calling out my name! I was pleasantly surprised to see one of my former collegues, Christiaan, waving like a madman. He was there to meet his fiancĂ© arriving on the same flight... but that didn't matter, nothing feels like home as having someone greet you at the airport.
 
Meeting up at the main camp in the afternoon, we realized that we were only going to be two people in the group, lead by a team of two rangers, what luxury! One of them was a very social and talkative young guy, while the other was more of the quiet lone-wolf variety.  
Arriving at the bush camp in the late afternoon, far away from the crowds of the tarred roads and braai smoke of South African campers, we thoroughly enjoyed the rustic ambiance. The only night light was the moon and some solar powered glass jar lights, that now are becoming increasingly more popular camping equipment.
One of the luxuries was however the gas-heated showers! Something which really came in handy due to the afternoon rains we experienced. If you go to South Africa in summer, rain is something you need to be prepared for... and of course, we were.
It's rather a small camp with four huts, set in thick bush. Both the toilets and the huts have views of the bush outside the one metre high fence that surrounded us. It's presence is not as much for protection, I guess, as for keeping the guests from wandering off into the wild... They sometimes try to do that you know!
In camp we mostly had birds, insects and a couple of tortoises in a “romantic” mood for company. The resident toilet lizard gave me quite a shock the first night as he was hanging out on the toilet roll, but after a while I think we got used to each other, even though I find it difficult when someone is watching me...
I definately enjoyed the morning walks, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells, as well as a few litres of dew, you feel immersed in the wild... and nothing else matters. After a while you get into an even pace and it becomes almost meditative walking quietly with your own thoughts. For hours we made our way through the high grass and sickle bush thickets, stopping to inspect tracks, birds, dung and the occasional rhino.
The second day we also visited a place where there are bushman paintings. Not sure about the age of these though, or if someone's just decided to improve a bit on them, as they looked to be in a rather excellent condition... Maybe that's just me being a sceptic as usual? I do love the simple drawings however and wouldn't mind this sort of graffiti on my living room walls.
The breakfast stops came with some of the best views ever and I could have stayed forever, just pitch a tent and never go back; three days pass way too quickly. However, the brunch on our return to the camp may actually be worth going back for. If there's bacon, I'll be there!

/A

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