The lion's share

Some days you just get the feeling that you might as well go home now, there is just no way it can get any better. This was one of those mornings... and we didn't even see elephants!

Yesterday, heading back to camp we encountered a young lioness walking down the road, checking out the waterbucks very thoroughly. We were hoping to be able to spot her this morning as well and that last night's rain would make her easy to track. However, there was no sign of her.

 

The three new, young lionesses have spread out in the lower parts of the reserve and the young male, who was brought in with them, has abandoned them in favour of the two older lionesses. Not an all together bad move on his part, I might add...

Driving down a dirt road with no tracks of other vehicles is a great feeling and there were lots of other kinds tracks everywhere... mostly antelopes and zebras though, our cat searched seemed to be in vain. As we came on to one of the larger plains, our ranger, Adriaan, remarked that there was an eerie emptiness to the place... And a few hundred metres later, we discovered the reason...

During the night or early morning hours the two experienced lionesses had managed to bring down a zebra, as well as a wildebeest... whose relatives and friends weren't about to hang around and watch the feast; thereof all the tracks leading out of there. If I was a lion, I'd also ditch the younger ones and join the two who know what they're doing, bringing down breakfast, lunch and dinner in one go.

Curiously, the male didn't seem to have eaten yet and was resting in the shade some distance away from the females. One of them was still feeding, while the other kept an watchful eye on four hopeful black-backed jackals that nervously kept their distance in wait of their chance. I'm not too sure the jackals needed worrying about the females though, as they both looked like they had chucked down their own body weight in meat and about to trip on their own bellies and fall over.

Suddenly the females moved up into the shade further away, probably because they were about to burst. My mind immediately went to memories and fantasies of Christmas dinner back home...  

 

One of them had been drinking a lot of blood and I almost expected the urine to be pink as she relieved herself before joing her companien under a tree.

 

The male also decided to move, so he stood up and roared once before walking towards the zebra carcass. We were hoping he'd decided it was his turn, but he walked right passed it. Maybe he just wanted to be closer to his new-found girl friends.  

Now the jackals moved in on the two enormous meals and there definately was plenty to go around. Yet, they managed to find a reason to fight over the meat! Portion control guys!

 

Jackals are opportunistic and highly intelligent, but skittish, creatures, so they don't often let you get very nice photographs. This time, they didn't care whether they had a bad hair day however and stayed still long enough to have pictures taken.

 

/A

Sneaky bastards

I often remind others of the great dangers of the bush... that is monkeys and mice stealing your food, soap or mosquito repellent! Keep an eye on your food, lock it away safely and close all windows and doors and, for God's sake, zip up your tent!

 

Having breakfast in the bush, someone is always watching you, eagerly waiting for you to loose focus for half a second. They really don't need more time than that!

Me and Desiré even went to the bathroom in shifts, so that we wouldn't have to store everything away and zip up our tents all the time. On one of my shifts I noticed a banded mongoose about twenty metres away and decided to try and get a photo of it. Biiiig mistake! I was standing right outside the food tent, but since my focus was elsewhere, a vervet monkey, swift as a swallow, jumped in, stole our bread and was gone again in 2 seconds... It dropped the bag after having been chased up into a tree and the whole troop came running for the scattered slices. Furious about my stupidity and tomorrow morning's probable starvation, I gathered most of the bread and threw it in the bin. Only two slices survived the vervets' rough handling!

 

One afternoon, after a game drive, we saw a bunch of mongooses running off as we approached our camp. Then we noticed that the bedroom tent had been opened about 10 cm. Odd, since we stored neither valuables nor food there. However, we did have a first aid kit... Apparently even mongooses have ailments that require urgent treatment.

They'd opened up the tent just enough, got in and stolen anti-inflammatories, as well as allergex blister packs! We found a couple of them around the camp site, but one of the allergex packs was missing and one third of an anti-inflammatory tablet had been eaten; they at least seem to have got the dosage correct! One of our neighbours remarked that he must have been quite surprised to find that his bad knee didn't bother him anymore...

 

After all this, we got two wires that we twined the two zips closed with... and thought we were really smart. 

 

The enigma was the missing allergexes... but that one was solved the very next day. After another drive in Mapungubwe, the tablets had miraculously found their way back, lying in plain view, in the middle of the camp site. We figured that the mongooses realized they actually didn't need them and dropped them in the bush, as they scurried off. The vervet monkeys must have found the shiny package interesting and climbed our Nyala tree and up there found out that these things weren't very tasty and just dropped them... or maybe as an apology for the stolen bread..?

Happy about our find, we opened up the tents, expecting them to be untouched. Inside the food tent though, there was a small little chaos waiting for us; boxes had been chewed through and there were bits and pieces of them everywhere! Playing detectives, we soon came to the conclusion that a squirrel had been the third visitor and that it had chewed its way in, through the canvas and the mosquito net. Why on earth it didn't eat the tomatoes or the cereal instead of cardboard however remains an unsolved mystery.

Apparently third time's a charm and we didn't have any more sneaky creatures rummaging through our temporary home. Luckily we managed quite well without all the bread, tablets and... cardboard?!

/A

Into the Wild

As I had never been to the far northern part of Limpopo, me and Desiré decided to rectify this wrong and at the same time put her new vehicle to the test. Turning north from Polokwane, I entered into the wild, land previously unexplored... well, by me, that is. Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn and soon thereafter Soutpansberg, more and more Baobabs showed up and the feeling of being in the true African bush intensified.

Closing in on Mapungubwe we soon came upon a road block, or rather a road gap. The area had experienced some flooding recently and as a result, many bridges had been washed away. This forced us to take a detour on corrugated gravel roads through tomato farms with waving farm workers.

Back on track the sun began to set and gave the landscape the magical golden shimmer I love so much. Reaching our camp in Mapungubwe National Park, we quickly set up camp as darkness was falling around us and started the braai. Happily we sipped some white wine, listened to the cicadas and looked at the stars, while the chicken kebabs took forever on the grid.

  

When we finally went to bed, expecting to be lulled by the usual night concert of the wild, we were amused as well as annoyed to find that our closest neighbour snored like there was no tomorrow! We cursed our choice of camp site, but the next morning we realized that the small size of the camping grounds made it impossible to be out of hearing range. Desiré quickly got her earplugs out and thanks to the long road trip and all the fresh air we both managed to fall asleep within minutes.

 

Despite the human(?) noices, the camp was frequented by a number of creatures, in search of food, water and protection, making. Especially a bushbuck female and young made themselves comfortable just a few metres away, from right after dinner until after we'd had breakfast.

 

...not having any earplugs actually turned out to be pretty great, as both lions and hyenas vocalized their presence in the early morning hours.

A few nights later the whole camp was joking about the snorer, who turned out to be a very nice guy and a valuable ice-buying neighbour. In spite of this, Desiré and one of the other campers had some rather advanced ideas as how to make the snoring disappear... one of which included a treed, and supposedly hungry, Genet!

/A



Highveld flight

Back in  Gauteng, after a week in the lowveld, I was unexpectedly invited to go flying with my friend's daughter, Cassandra. She is allowed to bring two passengers with her in the four-seated Cessna. I gladly accepted and at eight o'clock the next morning, we left for the airport.

After the safety controls had been carried out, we swiftly took to the skies. Ascending we were informed that there were no barf bags on board, but as I was to excited, I didn't really pay that piece of information much interest at this point.

 

We soon passed by the skyline of Pretoria and shortly thereafter, Cullinan diamond mine, which is where the largest gem stone quality diamond in the world (Star of Africa, 621 g) was discovered, in 1905.

Heading eastward, the ride soon started to get rather bumpy and I was glad I wasn't the only passenger, as that would have made me the dedicated map reader. I was amazed that Cassandra's colleague, Craig, didn't seem to be showing any signs of motion sickness at all, though he had an eye on the map during the whole flight. Meanwhile I was starting to get a bit worried about the no barf bag-situation and concentrating really hard not to have to use the cooler bag instead...

In spite of my predicament I enjoyed the views of fields, rivers and mountains rushing by, but was glad when Wonderboom airport yet again came into view. Afterwards, our pilot confessed to having been affected by the bumpiness as well this day, something which definitely made me feel a little better... as did some home baked treats and half a litre of water.

 

/A

Love in the Lowveld

When it comes to lions, I've mentioned a few times earlier that they usually aren't very exciting to watch, as their most common activity is sleeping.

Once in a while you're just in the right place at the right time though, as we were this spring afternoon, when love was in the air...

We found the three lions close by one of the dams and every few minutes one of the lionesses got up and did her best to entice the male, with the expected response. The other lioness decided to respectfully keep a few metres distance and relaxed in the shade of our vehicle, to everyone's delight.

Afterwards, I must say, she seemed rather pleased with her achievement. They would continue with this activity on average every twenty minutes for about five days.

A couple of nights later, neither of them seemed very interested in mating any longer though, but nevertheless dutifully kept to their routine.

/A

Chilled to the bone

As I arrived to South Africa for the first tour of the season, I was told that it's been unseasonably hot lately; something which I was of course looking forward to. The group of nine guests received these news with mixed emotions though as they had booked a springtime safari to avoid the heat.

Descending to the lowveld I eagerly kept an eye on the bus's thermometre, as the numbers got higher and higher and by six o'clock that evening had reached a pleasant 25 degrees. As the night progressed however the temperature kept getting lower. Next morning as we met for the first game drive it was a frozen bunch sipping coffee to warm up. We slowly thawed in the sun... only to realize that the evening was going to be clear, with a perfect starry African sky, meaning that the upcoming night would be even cooler!

It was 2 degrees that night, in a tent without heating! I woke up at three, unable to move my legs, as they had warmed up one spot and the rest of the bed was unbearably cold to touch. After contemplating the situation for a few minutes I rushed out of bed and fetched some extra clothes and towels. With towels on top of the duvet and pillows all around me under it, I soon went back to sleep, dressed in knee-high socks.

But as the days went by, the temperature increased again to a pleasant 30, and a week later when the guests had left, to a boiling 39.

/A